Skip to main content

Dineocrat Visits Ze Kitchen Galerie in Paris

This is a scene of the River Seine during the day, around lunchtime, from the Pont Neuf. It's magnificent and expansive, but what may not be immediately evident is the cluster of autos on the street, on the Quai des Grands Augustins. Along the middle right side of the picture, a traffic jam, or embouteillage, as the French call it, which is a fact of life here, the quiet hum of running but non-moving cars punctuated by the occasional shrieking ambulance and the tolling bells of nearby Notre Dame Cathedral.

Across the street, Ze Kitchen Gallerie offers a welcome respite from the interminable bustle, a place for a filling repast before you move on to your next touristic adventure. Chef William Ledeuil honed his craft at Les Bouquinistes, which abuts ZKG, before moving on to open his own place to showcase his playful culinary creations. A source of solidly prepared, delicious food along the rive gauche, ZKG is a grand gastronomic stop in the 6th arrondissement of Paris.
A rosé Champagne and some water to start us off. I swear, we spend a fortune on bottled water in these gastronomic trips. We should think twice; "tap water, s'il vous plait"? On the right, an Alsatian Riesling from Ostertag that we chose to go with the Asian-inflected lunch.
On the left: Ravioli de porc, condiment pistou et jus Thaï (pork ravioli, Thai jus, pistou condiment). Probably the best of a series of good plates, the pork was meltingly tender, the sauce light and well seasoned. On the right: Saint Jacques, oursin et condiment citron "Meyer" (scallop, sea urchin, "Meyer" lemon condiment). I still don't know why Meyer was in quotes; not-really Meyer lemons are usually just called lemons. This is the better appetizer for those looking for a more straightforward, clean taste, but for me, it can't beat the raviolis.
Below: bouillon topinambour-citronelle, ris de veau, condiment sesamé noir (Jerusalem artichoke broth, sweetbread, black sesame condiment). This dish was also quite excellent, though I felt the sesame condiment didn't add enough of a punch; in fact, it was rather bland. But the sweetbread and broth? Sensational. Moreover, the sauce being poured, in action, earned this photo a right to be enlarged. 
Left: encornet grillé, crabe mou en tempura et aïoli gingembre (grilled squid and tempura of soft-shell crab with ginger aioli). Again, those looking for lighter fare would do well to order this together with the seafood dish above. Ideally grilled squid and tender soft-shell crab in a colorful mosaic-like presentation equals delicious. Right: poulette "cour d'armoise," jus d'un curry Thaï, Sancho-mostarda (cour d'Armoise spring chicken, Thai curry jus with mostarda-Sancho). This chicken gave in so easily to the bite, one could have mistaken it for fish.
Below: agneau de lait confit grillé, condiment miso-chorizo (confit-grilled suckling lamb with chorizo-miso condiment). Where is the tenderness? Right here on this veal. The slightest hint of gaminess, the visual impact, the unique chorizo condiment all add up to a stunning yet in the end quite simple dish.
The desserts were truly marvelous, preparation- and taste-wise. Left: glace chocolat blanc-wasabi, condiment pistache-torrone, emulsion thé rouge (white chocolate-wasabi ice cream, pistachio-torrone condiment with red-tea emulsion). Right: crème de citron, sablé yusu, sorbet mandarine-citronelle (lemon cream, yuzu cookie, mandarin-lemongrass sorbet).
Below: soupe de châtaigne, poire confite, condiment datte-vin de noix (chestnut soup, pear confit with date-walnut wine condiment). The fancy soup-based desserts reminded me somewhat of many Asian desserts, like those in dim sum restaurants, for instance (check out the sago dumplings in coconut milk here), and ginataan (red or green beans and coconut milk soup) from the Philippines. Or maybe I was just homesick.

Of all the restaurants we visited, Ze Kitchen Galerie showed the most Asian influences with its ingredients and cooking techniques. Married with French methods, they produced a meal that was satisfying, if a bit rich (though not as rich as that at Jean-François Piège). The casual crowd and the natural light coming through the glass windows, even on a mostly gray late-winter day, made for some relaxing eating. Around 40€ gets you a starter (an entrée in French), entrée (plat principal, here called a plat "à la plancha" to refer to their specialty of grilling) and dessert, all pretty generous servings. You can skip either entrée or dessert for 5€ less, but really, why? There's also a degustation for 70€, but we may save that for another time, when I don't have a need to walk or, indeed, rise from the chair at all after lunch.

I finished my meal off with an espresso to jolt me back to life after that benevolent lunch. It came with a nice chocolate and nut disc, which I think may have neutralized the awakening effect of the coffee. But not to worry, I made it out with enough energy for an afternoon of strolling and picture posing. (More pictures of the area in another post.)
Reservations recommended and you can request one online via the LaFourchette service, the French equivalent of OpenTable.

4, rue des Grands-Augustins
75006 Paris
T. : + 33 (1) 44 32 00 32 - F. : + 33 (1) 44 32 00 33

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Spiral - Fine Buffet Food at Sofitel Manila

Buffets were my nightmares. Seriously. My first experiences of them were back in the late 80's, in the form of American all-you-can-eat chains and the Vegas strip. Thoughts of these fluorescent-bathed establishments deliver to my mind plates of dark-edged lettuce, grease-laden meatballs and all-you-can-eat spaghetti with dubious meat sauce. Little did I know back then that these were merely temporary outposts for the 250-pound men and women on the express road to 500 pounds. But even Vegas has upped the ante of dining, upgrading its hotels to dizzyingly ostentatious luxury and, consequently its amenities to match, including its buffets and more formal sit-down restaurants. When I went back to Manila for good, one of the first places my family took me to was the strikingly modern Sofitel Manila , which houses the Spiral buffet restaurant (and a small casino). After several more visits, my nightmares, I could honestly say, are gone. Even after having eaten at the new-Vegas buffets, ...

Salumeria Roscioli, Rome

Salumeria Roscioli in Rome is a narrow restaurant in a chic area of the city, on the Via dei Giubbonari. After window shopping at the trendy boutiques along the street, we headed to the restaurant for our meal for the night. You enter through a deli/salumeria/wine bar with an amazing selection of products, and arrive in the back where there are small tables for dinner. There's also a downstairs, in the wine cave, with a few slightly bigger tables for larger parties. Flawlessly presented with deceptive simplicity, the food was quite good. There were, however, no surprises with the ingredients or preparations, though both were first-rate. What you will get, however, is a breathtakingly deep wine selection and incredible variety of salumi, as well as the precise but simple cooking of the chef. Prego? Below, two views of some of the the wines and liqueurs for sale in the vineria. If you have a table against the wall, most likely one of these monsters would be above your ...

L'Antico Borgo Ristorante, Civitella in Val di Chiana, Italy

We were lost, hopelessly, almost irretrievably lost. My friend from California had been driving us around for several hours, all three of us having gotten very little rest after our arrival in Rome. At that point, we had been up almost 48 hours with hardly a wink on the planes we took. We were searching for Civitella in Val di Chiana, a tiny little town in the hills above the Tuscan city of Arrezzo and it was a task more difficult than we thought. The directions we received were not very clear and it didn't help our cause that the signs around this area of Italy weren't very clear, either. Once you leave the city, the Tuscan towns pretty much all look the same. Pretty, but identical. And even when we stopped to ask for directions, the language barrier was worse than we had anticipated. Hours later, our Italian friend finally decided to meet us at a nearby hotel, easier to find than the bed and breakfast in which we were to stay. By the time we checked in to Antico Borgo—the B...