My dining companions and I had a fine dinner at rising star Akrame Benallal's eponymous restaurant, which had just received its first Michelin star the day before. The three of us were seated in the six-person communal table together with two other people, but the table was large enough that we were sufficently far from our neighbors and didn't bother us at all. Like Agapé Substance , it's an intimate place with probably no more than 30 seats. Service was all accomplished by one waiter and a sommelier, so expect to linger a bit. There was no rush to get us out. In fact, by the end of the night, the staff had gathered around one of the tables, including Akrame himself, while one kept refilling our water glasses. (Maybe, though, that was a hint for us to leave. Oh, clueless Dineocrat!) The dinner was precise and meticulous, with surprising twists and an occasionally genius dish (oyster, cockles, duck heart in squid ink). David, the sommelier didn't quite know what...
eating around asia and beyond.