Stinky, gorgeous, filthy, ancient, modern, progressive, backwards: the paradox that is Paris. In the past few years, Parisian food has gained the dubious reputation of being behind such fiercely modern gastronomic centers as Barcelona, New York and even London. I was there in the City of Lights and I'm here to tell you there's nothing wrong with the food! First dinner of the trip, the night I and my dining companions arrived, was at Agapé Substance , David Toutain's outpost in the 6th. We caught the staff on their last night before their vacation, their first ever since they opened. Eighteen courses later, we were thrilled that we had made that reservation just in time. (They would have been closed during the rest of our stay in Paris.) Inventive, fun, efficient, adventurous, intimate--it was a great intro to new Parisian cuisine. The wines here are quite a marvel, served up by a very young sommelier (he looked barely old enough to drink). The restaurant emphasizes ...
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