My dining companions and I had a fine dinner at rising star Akrame Benallal's eponymous restaurant, which had just received its first Michelin star the day before. The three of us were seated in the six-person communal table together with two other people, but the table was large enough that we were sufficently far from our neighbors and didn't bother us at all. Like Agapé Substance, it's an intimate place with probably no more than 30 seats. Service was all accomplished by one waiter and a sommelier, so expect to linger a bit. There was no rush to get us out. In fact, by the end of the night, the staff had gathered around one of the tables, including Akrame himself, while one kept refilling our water glasses. (Maybe, though, that was a hint for us to leave. Oh, clueless Dineocrat!)
The dinner was precise and meticulous, with surprising twists and an occasionally genius dish (oyster, cockles, duck heart in squid ink). David, the sommelier didn't quite know what to do with himself when I told him to be adventurous with his wine pairing, but he succeeded mightily, teasing our palates with mystery wines and pairing them with our dishes with care. When we asked our waiter whether we should order the four- or six-course, he was noncommittal, although he did say that the latter was for gourmands. Well, we couldn't not order it after that comment/challenge! (Gullible us!)
Overall a congenial, warm atmosphere with service half in French, half in English (mostly because I was trying to speak French half of the time). The overall design message was modern, the place decorated with beautifully shot pictures of ironically thin tattoo models and copies of Nathan Myhrvold's Modernist Cuisine for reading. If you're on a budget, go for lunch and skip the wine. If you're not, order the whole nine (or six) yards: six-course with wine pairing. It's worth it.
Like Agapé Substance from a couple of nights before, Akrame's meals are a surprise; the chef decides what you're going to have for the night. Have a little trust in the Gagnaire and Adria-trained chef.
A slate of amuses: Japanese flower "caviar," smoked eels; Vincent Caille 2007 Opus no. 7 Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine.
Poached egg and maize on chicken (what we called "the chicken or the egg" dish).
Root vegetables - salsify, topinambour (Jerusalem artichokes), navet jaune boule d'or (this was a tough one to translate on the spot, but I think it's golden ball turnip).
Among the wine pairings, a sake. Only one other sommelier did this for us before, and that was Paul Einebund when he was sommelier at Coi.
The night's best dish: oysters, cockles, duck heart, squid ink.
Calamari and quinoa; Guiberteau 2008 Saumur.
Rouget, celery, pistachio, potato chips; Stephane Montez 2010 Viognier.
Rognon d'agneau (lamb kidney), sesame tuile, mandarin, sweet potato puree, tonka emulsion; L'Abbaye de Cîteaux (fromage de bourgogne).
Citron sorbet atop a meringue sheet: light, excellent intermezzo, beautiful. And, well, I just love this photo.
Citron vert gelato, meringue, creme de murs. I love the whole ritual of service, too.
Another warm, welcoming, if a bit short-staffed, restaurant. Through it all, both the waiter and the sommelier were professional and calm, David was at times even exuberant, which we appreciated. Benallal even came out at the end of the meal and greeted us. Instead of rushing us out, they treated us to glasses of Champagne to celebrate their first Michelin star (the first of several, I hope). It was a great experience that I highly recommend you seek out for yourself. Reservations essential and you can do them online via email.
restaurant Akrame
19, rue Lauriston, Paris
+33 1.40.67.11.16
Ouvre à 12:00
reservations@akrame.com
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