Dineocrat at L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon Hong Kong

Hong Kong is a great food city. I can't get enough of this place's cuisine, particularly its roast pork. It does vegetables right and in very interesting ways, surprising my palate with unexpected techniques and tasty sauces. So, it was with much excitement that I went to L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon, situated within the posh Landmark mall, to see how the famed Michelin-starred establishment would fare against the local food. The Hong Kong outpost of the Robuchon empire is what you would expect of such a fine-dining establishment of French pedigree: floor-to-ceiling glass walls of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, a hallway to the dining room lavishly lined with orchids, low light (bring your reading glasses), dark wood and velvet. I ordered the degustation, hoping for a nice wine pairing to go with it. But when I asked the sommelier, he said it was not officially offered but that something could be put together. But he couldn't wait to leave so my waiter and I ended up choosing a few wines from the by-the-glass menu. At least they offer E. Guigal Condrieu, one of my favorite wines, by the glass, so that was a plus.

Overall, there were probably two standout dishes in the tasting menu, but many others were disappointing in their sameness of taste and texture. The desserts were marvelous. But I don't think the degustation is worth the cost just for the desserts. Try the bar if you go. My friends who went to the one in Paris think it may be the better deal. Needless to say, though, I skipped a Robuchon meal when I was in the City of Lights. C'est la vie, as they say!

I must give the restaurant points for flawless presentation. Visually, it's nothing if not appetizing. Above, a braised artichoke in Barigoule style with carrot, avocado and tomato; and a shining sea urchin cream in delicate wasabi emulsion. "Shining" refers to the gold atop the sea urchin. But the sea bass fillet with salmon roe and aromatic herb sauce, below, was the best of the night, partly because it provided a break from the sameness of the previous creamy, rich dishes. And of course, you can't go to a Robuchon without sampling its legendary whipped truffled potatoes, in my case served with the quail.

Below, quail stuffed with foie gras, truffled whipped potatoes; amuse bouche of artichoke, foie gras and port reduction with sliver of brioche toast; Osetra caviar with lobster gelee and crab.

While I usually prefer white plates to go with a more modern minimalist setting, the restaurant had some of the most appealingly ornate plates I've ever seen. Next picture, the menu displayed outside the restaurant.

There's something about the restaurant that makes everything glow with a mysterious aura. It's certainly a romantic place. Below: a glass of Dubonnet, butter tower, bread.

This green apple sugar pearl ball of a dessert was just too beautiful for words. And when I cracked it open to reveal the apples and salted caramel cream inside, it was even more breathtaking. This is something you go out to dinner for.

Another dessert, chocolate mousse on compote with pear liquor with white chocolate shell; mignardises.

I have mixed feelings about this place. I mean, look at how beautiful it is. So, here's my recommendation: at least try something at the bar. The ambience alone is quite an experience. For everything else foodwise, Hong Kong holds its own delicious marvels.


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